Adventure Blog Scotland | Water

See the inside of Tolsta Head

December 19, 2007 on 10:39 pm | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

There can’t be many place or people who are lucky enough to drop off the kids at school and within an hour be out sea kayaking on a calm ocean, under a broken sky with good company.

Point from Tolsta

Mike phoned last night wanting to go out for a paddle and I didn’t take much to convince. We have had run of great weather and the sea is like a sheet of glass.

So deposit the kids, a quick coffee boats on the roof and off. Our destination Tolsta Head about 8 miles north of the house.

There is one down side, a large down hill side. The beach launch (refered to by Mike’s kids as the Gruffalo beach) is at the bottom of a steep, and steeper when you are carrying boats up, sloop. It has been given a fantastic road down and it is all key blocks with parking for boats at the bottom.

After the launch it is a short paddle out to the north end of the bay and under the magnificent cliffs. They are riven with caves and arches, all this within 10 minutes of the launch.

Natural Arch Tolsta Head

Cliffs of Tolsta Head

What Mike had omitted to tell me, which he mentioned as we sat drinking coffee rafted up looking north, was it is his birthday.

On the return paddle we had a look at the blow hole.

Then the rare moment we had both been waiting for. In the end of Tolsta Head there is a cave which goes right though the headland, it has a bend in it so you as you paddle you seem to be heading for the dark abyss. As you round the bend the daylight suddenly sparkles on the water and the exit comes into view. What makes this so special is it is very rare the sea state will let you into the cave, let alone out the other end.

So a fitting birthday present for Mike.

Tim Pickering
http://www.canoehebrides.com
Living in the world's biggest adventure playground - The Outer Hebrides CanoeHebrides.com - Sea kayaking Expeditions BikeHebrides.com -Quality Mountain Bike Hire

Trip to paddle the Great Glen

October 30, 2007 on 9:48 pm | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

Horray, I have taken the first booking for next year, some previous clients have come back and booked me to take them for a trip paddling the Great Glen in sea kayaks from Inverness to Fort William. So five days guiding for July, if only it was this easy all the time. I guess it pays to keep the clients happy …

Frustrating week

October 27, 2007 on 10:22 am | In Sea Kayaking, Uncategorized | No Comments

We reach the end of another week and all we seemed to have was wind and rain. We had visitors this week and it would have been better if we had been able to visit the beaches and sights.

If I have a week like this, it is OK if I am working but when you are on a mission to escape it is very frustration, this is doubled by the fact if you are self employed the old addage of ‘no work - no earn’ hurts.

There was one bonus this week I have been given a job by Scottish National Heritage as a part time mink trapper for the winter. This for me is a great excuse to get out on the hill and to the outlying islands with the addition of removing this non indigenous species.

The problem with mink is they have been predating on the ground nesting birds and in the last nine years of paddling here I have seen the birds decline. I am not so naive as to think the mink are the only cause; over fishing, climate change etc also playing a role but I have seen more mink and less birds. It will be good to be involved with what I believe is a valuable project.

Anna is out a the moment doing an interview with Radio nan Gaidheal about sea kayaking for their Outdoor programme. This is great for the business but is also fantastic for the Canoe Club which is another passion of mine.

I read this week about this with interest (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/highlands_and_islands/7064194.stm). I would have liked to have been there.

I think there is broader issue, as well, there are too few role models for any young people to encourage them to get out and enjoy the Scottish Wildlands. What are they watching? Where are their influences? Do we need to be making extreme videos of the things we get up to in the wilds of our beautiful country? How do we get the You Tube generation out into Scotland?

Storm Gathering

October 22, 2007 on 12:14 pm | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

What a weekend. The Canoe Club have just held the second UK Storm Gathering. The opportunity for like minded sea kayakers to get together and paddle and socialise in the Outer Hebrides. Over 70 paddlers from all over the country and a few from further afield.

It was fantastic to see all the cars around Stornoway with boats on the roofs.

During the day there were trips and coaching sessions and the Hebridean weather did its best to deliver the storms. Yesterday (Sunday 21 Oct) when we came off the water at the top of Loch Seaforth my anemometer was reading 35 knots of wind, not a wonder we had been blow up the Loch.

In the evenings there were illustrated talks by some of the best sea kayakers in the business at the moments. We were treated to a preview of the video of Patrick Wintertons’ latest trip, paddling, taking in some of the Stevenson Lighthouses on the West coast starting at Barra Head. Exciting and a little bit mad?

It was great, as we used An Lanntair, the arts centre in Stornoway as a base and this allowed the use of the gallery space for art inspired by sea kayaking and some images by Hamish Gow who was the first person with his wife Ann to paddle to St Kilda. Apparently there have only been 13 people who have paddled there unsupported !

Another advantage of An Lanntair was the bar and auditorium for the talks but pull back the bleacher seating and a large area for the dance with Face the West.

So a very successful weekend and lots of people leaving saying they will be back to paddle in the Outer Hebrides.

note: I have just discovered Douglas Wilcox has posted pictures to his blog of the Storm Gathering http://seakayakphoto.blogspot.com/

A weeks work

October 11, 2007 on 8:31 pm | In Sea Kayaking | 1 Comment

How do you balance life a and work? I have been asked over the years when are you going to get a real job? Often people think because we work in the outdoors we have a life of pure pleasure, however we have to work and we do have to make money to eat and feed the children.

Over the course of the week I have been thinking about how I take the business forward from here to earn enough money and to remain true to my ethics. I hear the comment it is expensive to do outdoor activities but I have to ask how much would you pay a solicitor? I have over twenty years of experience and you trust me with your life and you are still wanting to pay me the minimum wage. Is there something wrong?

So I have come to some decisions over the the directions and once I have got it clear in my own mind and cleared it with the ‘Boss’ (Anna), I will start the marketing.

The week this week has had me travelling to Barra to run a first aid course to keep the bills paid over the winter.

Before this though we took the weekend off and headed off with the kids and Tommy and family (they live up the village). We had booked the long house (Taigh Làta) at the black house village at Gearrannan on the west coast of Lewis. These are renovated black houses which were abandoned in the 1970’s and have been renovated. There are some luxury ones and there is one large one which sleeps 16, we booked this and took it over. The kids had a great time, disappearing out into the village and coming back when they were hungry.

Gearrannan Black House Village

The Saturday saw us do the ‘tourist’ thing:

The Carloway Broch.

Callanish

Callanish Stones

Callanish

And it is good to remind yourself just why you live in a place.

Running Callanish

The Callanish visitors centre wasn’t as good as I remembered?

For me it ended all too early as I had to catch the ferry from Leverburgh to Berneray on Sunday afternoon (horray for cal Mac making it into the 20th Century Stornoway - Ullapool next?) and then on to Barra on Monday morning. It wasn’t all bad as I had the pleasure of dinner again in the Loch Boisdale Hotel and the grilled skate melted in the mouth and I sat in the bar and watched the Scotland - Argentina rugby game.

Monday morning saw me on the ferry across the Sound of Barra and watching the sun rise.

A days work delivering first aid and then the need to escape to the outdoors. Over the west side and a run up the hill to the mast and then down to the cottage on the headland . What a place it is an old coastguard house and just simply in one of the most breathtaking places. I was wondering who owned it and will need to make some enquiries as it would be great place to retreat to.

House on Headland,Barra

The next day of work is spent looking longingly out of the windows at the blue skies. The end seemed to take forever to arrive and then the mad dash to escape. Over to the beach and dive into the boat.

Blue, so much blue from horizon to horizon, white blue.

The paddling starts as an easy gentle stroll and gradually as I head south the swell began to grow. Approaching the headland a large Atlantic swell rolled under me. As you sit on the top of a wave imagine sitting in a chair on the windowsill of your the first floor and someone behind is rocking the chair, not hard but just a bit randomly, as each wave rushes under you swoop to the ground and then back up to the to the windowsill again.

Barra from a sea kayak
Sea foam
Dinner in the Castlebay Hotel after watching the sun set over the Kismul Castle sets me up for another day indoors wondering what adventures the weather will bring.

Kismul Castle, Barra

Strong winds overnight with rain bring a grey overcast day, a good one to be inside working.

So after finishing, I nipped out to see Nick and Kay at Barra Power Kiting for a quick chat and ended staying for tea and setting world to rights. They are offering great powerkiting, and buggying and they were telling me they will be doing kite surfing next year. They have also just completed their flat as outdoor friendly self catering accommodation and it looks great.

As we talked kites I was begining to regret not bringing my kites down to a kiter Barra offers kiting in any wind direction on deserted beaches and machair … and friendly people, there is only so much room in the car and space in the day

The only things I found hard about being in Barra were; the Vodaphone layby, if you want a vodaphone signal you have to drive out of Castlebay past the Isle of Barra Hotel and into the next layby, so talking to home was a bit restricted, apparently there is a signal from the other networks in Castlebay and as the lack of open wireless networks hence the long blog now !

Wind and Water

September 24, 2007 on 9:16 pm | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

What a day yesterday. We had been watching the weather - it becomes a bit of an obsession when you ‘live’ in the outdoors. I don’t know about other Outdoor people but I have a real problem with the BBC TV weather and their fixation with rain when we all know it is the wind which is important, I will get off my hobby horse now.

So back to yesterday, the paddlers in Stornoway Canoe Club look for the strongest wind and the biggest waves before they start dusting of their gear and heading for the sea. So when it was forecast for a south westerly force 7-8 we all started to get excited. In these conditions it is a case of getting blown from one place to another while whooping and howling down the waves which are blown up.

Eventually there were four of us when we got in at Maraig in Harris into Loch Seaforth. The intention to get out into the Loch and scream up to Kintarvie past Seaforth Island.

Once we were out of the bay the wind was being funneled up the Loch and the surf up and to the North west of Seaforth Island was great with yells of delight all round. It was one of those trips where one wave just connected to the next and they were all taking you in the right direction.

On the south side of Seaforth Island in heavy rain there is a waterfall over one of the cliffs and when the wind is howling the waterfall is blown up ad looks like smoke. I was told by Murdo from Ardvourlie when they were children they were told the smoke was from the witches chimney and it showed she was home.

On the stretch from Seaforth Island the wind picked up and there were a few squalls rattled through and Allan caught one wave and surfed it to the point it capsized him and he swam. It is good practice to do a rescue in conditions like this but not something I want to do too often.

It was surprisingly tiring and carrying the boats up the croft to the car seemed a long walk and the boats had put on weight

As the home of storm paddling the Outer Hebrides are hosting the 2nd UK Storm Gathering on the 11-13th October in Stornoway. It is the chance for like minded paddlers to get together do some paddling and get some coaching in more advanced conditions

The Wonders of South Uist

September 20, 2007 on 7:44 pm | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

I am sat logged into the wireless network in the Loch Boisdale Hotel with a pint of Skye Ale and waiting for my goose to arrive - fresh local goose - and salivating at the thought.

I am down here running a first aid course and brought the sea kayak on the roof of the car in the hope of getting out for a paddle but the weather has been unkind and blown hard.

The car and boat on the machair

However this has brought an unexpected pleasure, when I finish working at four I needed to do something outside and so on with the running shoes and out to explore. I am glad I was forced out as I usually look at the east coast for paddling, it is more interesting from a boat, so running on the machair on the west (the land between the sea and the moor) was breathtaking. The skies are so huge they are almost unreal.

Looking south from South Uist to Barra

They have the unreal quality of making the horizon seem to be below your feet.

Stooks on the Machair

So with the forecast for wind and rain I have been luck enough to steal the rarest of jewels from nature’s grasp of being suprising by beauty.

I ran too far and now my legs hurt

ps. The food was fantastic, the waitress not only helpful and efficent but beautiful to

September 12, 2007 on 8:31 pm | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

It has been a little while since I have posted a blog, the last few weeks have shot by in a blur, not all good. So just a short post now. I was out at St Kilda last week with a film crew who are filming for a BBC programme. The weather wasn’t very nice but apparently that was OK with them. We had a horrendous beat back out on Wednesday and had to sail 10 miles north of Whale Rock before being able to tack and sail for Village Bay. (Approx an extra 25 miles) With the swell which was running it was not the best.

I arrived back and Anna had booked two people to do and trip out sea kayaking Monday and Tuesday - luckily they were good paddlers. The weather started with a breeze from the North West and gradually it eased. We got in at Valtos Pier and paddled out into the Sound of Pabbay. There was a sizable swell running (2-3m) and it made the conditions interesting. This was exactly what the they were looking for and I gave a little coaching on paddling in bigger water. We poked our noses (or at least the backs of our boats - it makes sense to be able to see the waves as they come towards you) into the caves on the south side of Pabbay.

I don’t get bored of paddling there, it is different every time.

We dropped back round the east side of the island and up the north caost and we did make it into the lagoon but only after I took about five years off my life, sweating would be an understatement, they were competent but didn’t mean I wasn’t worrying as we went round the skerry to access the entrance to the lagoon.

The afternoon was spent leasurely paddling to Vaia Mor to one of my favorite camp sites and the bonus was the fire wood we collected last time we were there was still in the box I left, so a small fire on the beach ended a great day.

The wind was on the nose as we paddled back in the morning, so a hard grind, back to the car and deliver them to the ferry in Stornoway. Another bespoke trip and happy customers.

I will download the pictures and post them if I have a few minutes but I have a presentation to do on ‘The Importance of Our Marine and Coastal Landscape to the Future Development of Eco-Tourism’ on Friday so I am stuffed full of conflicting ideas.

With stag party to do on Saturday with Murray from SeaTrek we are doing the paddling and climbing, weather forecast isn’t looking good … Then off to Uist on Sunday to deliver a Fist Aid course, I am going to take the boat and hopefully do some paddling in the Sound of Barra. So life is never idle …

Paddling with Jaws II (well, not quite)

August 1, 2007 on 10:42 am | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

My day was brightened today when one of our guides sent in a couple of pics from the recent Wilderness Scotland sea-kayaking trip to Skye. Although I wasn’t there, I was pretty excited by the pics so thought I would share them with you here. The last time I was in Loch Scavaig we had a couple of Minke Whales surface about 10m away but somehow these harmless 14 foot long sharks eclipse that!

Kayaking with Basking Shark

I’m heading up there again in a couple of weeks so am keeping my fingers crossed. Enjoy the pics!

Kayaking with Basking Shark 2

Stevie Christie
http://www.wildernessscotland.com
Director of Wilderness Scotland & also of the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival. Into most mountain sports, esp mountain biking, walking, climbing and sea-kayaking.

Paddling with Beasts part II

July 30, 2007 on 10:42 pm | In Sea Kayaking | No Comments

I have finally managed to find myself in front of the computer, the children are in bed and I should really be doing some work but…

Today was dingy sailing with Toby in the harbour using the Outdor Forum’s trailer full of boats to teach youngsters the finer points of capsizing, great fun.

So back the paddling trip:

The trip didn’t start well for Lydia her bag with all her paddling gear didn’t make it to Lewis and as I type is still lost in the ether somewhere between JFK airport in New York and Stornoway. So I raided my toy cupboard and equiped her (lucky she is just little shorter then me and has the same size feet).

So duly clothed we left Leverburgh on Saturday afternoon, once we had had a leisurely lunch in the Anchorage over the maps - good soup, red pepper and lime - to be recommended. A short paddle across to Ensay and we set up camp just in front of the house on the machair. With a fire set in the grate of one of the ruins we settled down to fresh pasta.

Camp on Ensay

Sunday morning broke to blue skys and very little wind. As we sat having breakfast we watched a charter boat steam into the Sound (to save embarrisment I will not mention the name) I was just explaining to the Tom and Lydia the channel through and saying he didn’t look right when the sound of thunder. It wasn’t - it was the boat running into the rocks. The spoon of porridge stopped half way to my mouth as I couldn’t believe what I was watching. After I was over the shock I went to my boat to get the VHF radio ready to call the coastguard, however as I switched it on they slid back off the rocks and started steaming for the peir at Leverburgh. I found out later nobody was hurt except the skippers pride. It is a difficult piece of water but on a clear morning with no wind …

Sound of Harris

The day we spent crossing the Sound of Harris to the Gatliff Hostel on Berneray, then on to Otternish where we had lunch in the sun on the slip and then East up the Sound to Thernatriagh for the night.

Pabbay, Sound of Harris

Monday morning delivered a not so pleasant present, a northerly4 to 5 and just to add insult to injury the tide was against us, always looking on the bright side at least no wind over tide. So began the long grind back to Leverburgh. We heard the seals moaning off Grodhiagh and discussed art whilst perched in the kelp eating biscuits on the back of Langaigh.

Another leisurely lunch in the Anchorage and we loaded the boats up and headed for the delights of Uig on the west coast of Lewis. Camp was on Reef camp site and the guilty pleasures of a shower and flushing toilet.

Launching from Valtos peir is for me one of the places I never tire of; golden sand rock outcrops and a picture post card view. Then the caves:

Cave Valtos

Paddling towards the mouth of the Sound of Pabbay and the natural arch, a creel boat shouted to Tom there were a couple of barking sharks just out, well …

Basking Shark

There were five swimming round and under us.

It is a little intimidation when a 20 foot shark is swimming towards you with it’s mouth open until you realise it would give you a nasty suck.

Just to add to the fun there were porpoises round us but they are a little ‘disapointing’ after the sharks and the minke whale only blew twice near us.

After an hour watching these incredible beasts we paddled on and through the arches on the north of Pabbay Beag and then into the lagoon for lunch. We could have been sat in the Caribbean, the sun was blazing, the azure waters rippled in front of us and best of all there was nobody else there.

Tom wanted to do some paddle training so he was dispatched to do some rolling and skulling while a coached from the shore, tea in one hand and the camera in the other.

Paddling in the lagoon

He decided he didn’t want to get his clothes wet so nude paddling !?!

That evening we camped on the temple beach on Pabbay and battened down the hatches as a blow was forecast, only the rain arrived. So a lazy morning of tea, sleeping bags and books was taken just incase it did arrive during the morning. The afternoon cleared allowing us to paddle through the narrows into Loch Roag Beag, with the salmon leaping round us.

Camp was set on Fuaidh Mor and the wind dropped and provided Tom and Lydia first taste of the fearsome Scottish midge, dinner was taken on the promentory in the little breeze and we retired to our tents as the sun started to wain.

Our final morning was the journey back to the car at Valtos Peir. As I drove to the B&B where Tom and Lydia were staying, Tom said “Now it is finished I can say, it was the best trip I have ever been on”

Paddling in Loch Roag

Lydia’s web site is http://www.lydiajohnston.com/index.htm

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